Spending The Day (And Often The Night) With The Whole Family In A Cebu Cemetery Part 1.
The first day of November is All Saints Day. The next day is All Souls Day. Or the other way around. Or both on the one day. It all depends on which explanation from my Asawa I was willing to accept as the right one. It varied each time I asked. I often do that, ask the same question several times or in slightly different ways. The answers rarely remain constant, just another part of the rich tapestry of life in this country.
Basically this is the drum. After Halloween, or all hallows eve, the witches and Onggu’s and evil spirits stop messing about and it’s time to nip down the cemetery, or “cement-tary” in Bisayan, and pay some respects to the dear departed. Apparently they go out and paint the town red on the 31st October, then settle back into their crypts the next day, ready for the rellies’ visit.
Trying to get anywhere on All Saints/All Souls Day (I’ll combine them for the time being until told otherwise) is not impossible but it is fraught with drama. Buses and jeepneys run from the early hours and all are over loaded, packed to the rafters and then even more hardy souls perch on the roof and risk falling off. This does happen and if lucky they fall to the side which doesn’t have oncoming traffic to contend with! The police and traffic enforcers do actually try and curb the more obvious excesses, at least this is the explanation Asawa gave me this year when I asked why there were so many cops about. Last year it had something to do with overtime payments and the year before that it was a blank stare. Of course that was the first year we were married and communications have improved considerably since.
Having our own vehicle is a big help, of course this now means we can transport the entire family back to the vast family estates in Calape. So I decree that we will leave bright and early, spot on 6am. Naturally the city based family members (and the youngest sister who has been spending her High School break with us), arrive several days before the departure date. This allows them to re-acclimatise with living in close proximity to a foreigner, as well as tuck in to the ice cream, chocolate and other foreigner goodies that are regularly stocked at Chez Bear. Not that I eat them that often, but the Asawa and Anaks have all developed a taste for expensive imported foreigner foodstuffs! So have the rest of the family but I really don’t mind. I enjoy having them around, saves me washing the car, running to the sari sari and lots of other menial tasks.
So as I said, spot on 7am we depart. I am nothing if not Lord of All I Survey, the Supreme Leader! The Asawa pays lip service to my authority as only a “sub-servient” Asian wife can. Not sure how that myth ever got started but it is a standing joke in our household. So off we go, seven souls in a small sedan on All Saints/ All Souls Day. First stop was Jollibee so I could berate the staff for not having the Sausage and Egg Sunrise (like a McMuffin, but sweeter, of course). It is a 50/50 deal whether they will have the only western style breakfast item available during breakfast time. They will have fried chicken and rice, spaghetti, hotdogs, funny noodle dishes and burgers full of sugar but don’t expect them to have any breakfast items. It is all too hard for them to order the ingredients or make the items, far easier to just make the Filipino things they are comfortable with. We later stopped at another Jollibee where the girl was told several times the order was for two of these Sunrises, and of course after a 15 minute wait while they made it, she’d only ordered one. So then we waited another 15 minutes.
Back on the road I introduced the tribe to The Angels, at full volume, of course. Hard Aussie Rock didn’t seem to go down well, but Barry White did. I’ll keep that in mind but listening to the CD three times in a row proved to be too much, even for the most die hard Barry White fan on board. Meanwhile, with the tribe alternately chattering away or sleeping, the kilometres rolled under the wheels and we closed in on Calape. We stopped in Bogo and stocked up with meat and vegetables, UHT “fresh” milk and anything else that would be scarce to non-existent in Calape, like toilet paper.
Bogo has two main cemetery’s and like every other town we had passed through on the way they were doing a roaring trade. Stalls set up along the perimeter fence sold food and drinks, toys, candles, flowers and cell phones. Maybe they thought the dear departed would text them or were simply cashing in on the crowds. The police were there in force wondering whether they should try and control the traffic. While the Asawa shopped I watched and noticed they had a “No Entry” sign up and were trying to operate a one way circuit to ease congestion. After half an hour I saw a discussion take place and the sign was removed, the cops retired to the shade of a cold drink stall and life went on. I was silly enough to venture over and ask one of the cops why had they taken down the “No Entry” sign? He replied that since virtually nobody was taking any notice of it, they might as well take it down and let the traffic get on with it!
ALL SOULS DAY, FILIPINO FAMILY FUN.
Spending The Day (And Often The Night) With The Whole Family In A Cebu Cemetery Part 2.
Bogo has two main cemetery’s and like every other town we had passed through on the way they were doing a roaring trade. Stalls set up along the perimeter fence sold food and drinks, toys, candles, flowers and cell phones. Maybe they thought the dear departed would text them or were simply cashing in on the crowds. The police were there in force wondering whether they should try and control the traffic. While the Asawa shopped I watched and noticed they had a “No Entry” sign up and were trying to operate a one way circuit to ease congestion. After half an hour I saw a discussion take place and the sign was removed, the cops retired to the shade of a cold drink stall and life went on. I was silly enough to venture over and ask one of the cops why had they taken down the “No Entry” sign? He replied that since virtually nobody was taking any notice of it, they might as well take it down and let the traffic get on with it!
Don’t you just love this place? Back home people would obey the sign, or the police would start kicking some butt and make them obey. Here, they accepted the will of the people and simply ceased to try and regulate! I am impressed they took down the sign before handing the streets back to the traffic, that showed guts as well as an acceptance of the inevitable.
Once the Asawa was back with the groceries we drove the final 25 kilometres to Calape. The road is pretty rough in places and full of pot holes. With three adults and two small children in the back the suspension was having a hard time keeping the wheel arches from rubbing away the sidewalls of the tyres. Going home we had four adults, two small children and a baby in the back. To a Filipino all that matters is that you can fit in, any effect you might have on other aspects of the vehicle’s operation, like the suspension, is irrelevant. How many Filipino’s fit into the back of a Mitsubishi Lancer? One more!
Once at the vast family estates the Asawa and I borrowed our motorbike, the Lifan 100cc Super Tourer that we had “loaned to the inlaws last year” and tootled off to see our lot. We have a small farm lot in nearby Bagay and like to visit it whenever we are in Calape. My wife’s maternal grandparents have the lot next to ours so a visit was in order. Lolo the Grandfather was in fine form. Drunk as a Lord!
Within moments of being in the same nipa hut as Lolo I was drunk too! He greeted me like a long lost son ( I have to stop palming him peso’s every time we visit but he is a lovely old bloke). He kept yelling “Ya Tai!” like some pirate of the Caribbean, rolling the last syllable and adding other unintelligible words. Even my Asawa and her Aunt couldn’t understand what he was saying over and over. I decided to quote from Shakespeare’s’ “Henry V”, something I have found handles most situations where you haven’t a clue what to say!
He changed to “arrrgh! Ha tai!” for a while once he realised I meant what I said when I included him in my “band of brothers”. The line about “be he ne’er so vile this day shall gentle his condition” actually made sense to me in a way it never had before! We then “arrrrgh! Ha tai-ed” our way outside where I was able to break free while the Asawa distracted him with some beer money. He is a lovely old gentleman and so is his wife. Well, she smokes hand rolled cigars better than any man I ever met! She can keep the whole thing in her mouth, then open her lips and curl the stogey out on the end of her tongue! At over six hundred years old, that is quite a feat!
We dropped in at the cemetery on the way back, more to check out the roof we had paid for than to really do the All Saints/ All Souls thing. My Asawa would do that later or the next day with her sisters and mother. There were three boys at the plot next to ours. All around 12, one was kicking at the gate to the mausoleum type structure. I asked him if that was his family’s plot and he cast his eyes downward in shame, but replied that yes, it was. I told him to show a little respect to whoever paid for the gate and not kick the “tahi” out of it. If this were Australia, the UK or America you can imagine the response. But this is the Philippines. With eyes cast downwards and a chorus of sorry’s, the three boys ceased kicking the gate and started cleaning up the garbage lying around the plot. That would never happen back home, never!
Back at the stately family manse the cousins were running riot. We now had seven small children taking matters into their own hands. I kicked back with a cold beer and the laptop, the Asawa went to visit an old school chum and the kids went for the world record on decibel production from underdeveloped vocal chords. A feast would be available soon, then an easy evening and tomorrow, back to the city and the daily grind. For now, time to sit back and soak in the local colour. For me, that is a nice amber shade with a white frothy head!